January/February

At no other time of year is the baroque face of Salzburg bathed in such pristine light. The bright blue skies are a clear indication of the low temperatures that prevail at the northern edge of the Alps. The winter sun illuminates the magnificent façade of the Cathedral, and makes the snow sparkle on the surrounding peaks in the distance, where there is plenty of action on the slopes. SalzburgerLand and the winter sports towns such as Zell am See and Bad Gastein are among the most modern and sophisticated in the world.

When it snows in the town, footsteps crunch in the medieval lanes, and the lights from the coffee houses promise a warming welcome. After a brisk stroll in the snow up on the Mönchsberg, look forward to a mélange coffee or a cup of hot chocolate and a punch cake. It’s the time when the locals like to get together and discuss all the latest gossip.

Now, once the New Year’s celebrations and Mozart week are over, Salzburg can breathe again, and the inhabitants have their town back for a few weeks. A night-time walk around the Old Town reveals the spell cast by the many examples of baroque architecture. Solitary footsteps echo in the lanes, and the occasional sound of bells fills the empty squares. So might the town have seemed in the time of the prince-archbishops.

It gets dark early at this time of year and the nights are long. Maria Lichtmess [Candlemass] on 2 February is the first sign that the light is returning. From now on the days become noticeably longer and after carnival (not hugely celebrated in Salzburg), comes Lent. This lasts 40 days and traditionally begins with eating herring on Ash Wednesday, and in Austria's beer-brewing capital people drink a traditional extra-strength bock beer. For a daytime treat, enjoy a sunny seat on the banks of the River Salzach or in the Mirabell Gardens.